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| DiRT Setup Clinic Need help on setups? Enquire within! |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 155
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This thread is to discuss what we all are using for specific settings in our setups, not so much theory.
I'll start with Rally cars gravel settings, since I am doing the International Championship mode with the 307 and just finished the EU Championship mode with the 205T16- Springs and dampers: I find the damper and spring settings are OK in the default setups and with the hyper grip that the game has, they don't matter quite so much as in full sims. On wet stages I will loosen the springs and raise the car a notch and also move the roll bars toward soft. For toe settings: on gravel I stick with around 17 degrees toe out up front. I go with between 8-10 degrees toe in on the rear wheels. This setting keeps my car stable going forward, not nervous, and also helps my turn-ins a bit. Any more and [esp. with the hyper-grip] the toe settings will cause speed to scrub off. Camber: I go with around 2 to 2.15 degrees negative in the front and around 1.2 negative in the rear. This helps with the rear end coming too loose and gives good grip in corners. Roll Bars: The game has kinda crazy roll bar default settings IMHO. I like to carry roughly equal roll bars front and rear, and I usually go fairly stiff. About 1/2 to 3/4 toward stiff depending on how twisty the stage is (twisty and/or wet stages I reduce the roll bars). Diffs and diff torque split: I tend to go with the loosest diffs I can get away with. In really twisty stages (like Aussie stages!) it's a real fine line between having diffs that are too locked and you can't make those turns and having diffs that are so loose that you lose grip. I like the split to be nearly even, with a slight advantage to the rear by maybe 5%. Brakes: I can't seem to figure the brakes out. I am running very hard and big brakes now with a 40/60 front/rear split but my rear still has a tendency to straighten up under braking. LFB is hard, so I think I need to move back to my old setting of 46/54 and soften up those brakes a bit. Tell us your magic tricks for setting up these awesome cars and trucks.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: United States of America
Posts: 9
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I'm finally starting to get a good feeling from the car on the bumpy gravel stages I was complaining about earlier. Here's what I'm currently running. Any suggestions would be welcome.
Gravel: F Camber: -1.90 R Camber: -1.11 F Toe: -0.38 R Toe: 0.53 F Stiffness: 36 R Stiffness: 36 Ride Height: 0.77 F Bump: 33 R Bump: 34 F Rebound: 37 R Rebound: 37 Fast Bump: 68 Activation: 0.67 Gearing: Depends on the stage. I tend to go with a 2 as a base with 5th & 6th geared like a 4. Brakes: 56/44 Disks: 10cm Soft Central Diff 40/60 F Accel. 0.18 R Accel. 0.36 F Decel. 0.37 R Decel. 0.21 Downforce 0.64 F Roll 60 R Roll 60 The car feels good and I'm working on bringing my speed up. No problem up to Amateur but Pro Am is still giving me trouble.. Great game. I love tweeking the settings and running the shakedown a few times before starting the rally. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 392
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Quote:
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Its no good being quick if your on the wrong road. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 155
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Too much toe will scrub off speed big time. You are better off with less than .18 degrees. On gravel you can make up for the corners by drifting, on tarmac, late straight line braking and sharp turn-ins.
If you go with toe-out up front, softer roll bars in the rear, it'll help with turn-ins as well.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: United States of America
Posts: 9
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I'll be trying that tonight. I've been talking to a friend who's really into tuning cars and he's given me some tips on how to use toe angle. I also realized I was backwards in my thinking. I thought negative toe angle was out but it seems to be the other way around.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1093484 He also suggested I play around with harder rear suspension and roll bar to increase oversteer on winding tracks. He also suggested that my roll bar stiffness match my central diff to some degree. So if I'm 40/60 on the diff I should have stiffer rear roll and softer front. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: United States of America
Posts: 9
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Just beat the tier 1 Italy rally with the 207 on Pro. The car is very stable, responsive and pretty quick. I would have had a better time but I made a couple small mistakes: 3:15.95
Gravel: F Camber: -1.50 R Camber: -1.00 F Toe: -0.20 R Toe: 0.20 F Stiffness: 31 R Stiffness: 49 Ride Height: 0.65 F Bump: 24 R Bump: 42 F Rebound: 62 R Rebound: 62 Fast Bump: 76 Activation: 0.60 Gearing: 1st: 0.04 2nd: 0.06 3rd: 0.09 4th: 0.11 5th: 0.14 6th: 0.17 Brakes: 60/40 Disks: 10cm Soft Central Diff 40/60 F Accel. 0.42 R Accel. 0.24 F Decel. 0.42 R Decel. 0.15 Downforce 0.50 F Roll 41 R Roll 55 So I'm finding that running the back end stiffer (roll + suspension) with more power will let it come around more on sharp turns. I'm counteracting this with stronger Front Diffs allowing my front end to grip better and pull me out of the slide. Again, it felt very comfortable and stable even pushing to beat Pro. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 392
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Quote:
__________________
Its no good being quick if your on the wrong road. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 764
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Quote:
Who's a big head?! Thats the thing, you have to work on one stage and get a good set-up, which can take a long time becasue Jon started ages ago on that stage.
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Matt - "Don't believe the hype" |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 392
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Quote:
__________________
Its no good being quick if your on the wrong road. |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: United States of America
Posts: 9
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Quote:
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